If you've spent any time digging through crates at a local shop or scrolling through online marketplaces, you've probably realized that vinyl record ratings are basically the secret language of the hobby. It can be a little overwhelming at first. You see all these letters like NM, VG+, and G+ tossed around, and if you aren't sure what they mean, you might end up spending fifty bucks on a record that sounds like someone's frying bacon in the background.
The truth is, grading is subjective, but it's the only thing keeping the used record market from turning into total chaos. Whether you're trying to value your own collection or you just want to make sure that "Near Mint" copy of Rumours is actually worth the premium price, understanding how these ratings work is a total game-changer.
The Gold Standard of Grading
Most people in the vinyl world follow what's called the Goldmine Standard. It's been around for decades, and while it isn't a legal requirement, it's the benchmark most sellers use. When you're looking at vinyl record ratings, you're usually looking at two things: the condition of the actual disc (the media) and the condition of the sleeve (the jacket).
It's important to remember that these are separate. You could have a pristine, never-played record sitting inside a jacket that looks like it was chewed on by a golden retriever. A good seller will always give you a grade for both.
Mint (M) and Near Mint (NM)
Let's start at the top. A truly Mint record is basically a unicorn. To most serious collectors, a record is only Mint if it's still sealed and absolutely perfect. Even then, some people argue that you can't call it Mint until you open it and verify there are no factory defects. It's a bit of a headache, honestly, which is why most reputable sellers stick to Near Mint.
A Near Mint record is essentially a perfect record that has been opened. It shouldn't have any visible scratches, scuffs, or "hairlines" (those tiny little surface marks). When you put it on the turntable, you shouldn't hear any surface noise. The cover should look like it just came off the printing press—no creases, no ring wear, and definitely no writing on it. If you're a perfectionist, this is the rating you're looking for.
The "Collector's Choice": Very Good Plus (VG+)
If you ask ten different collectors what their favorite grade is, nine of them will probably say VG+. This is the sweet spot for people who actually want to listen to their music.
A VG+ record will show some signs that it's been played and handled, but it was clearly loved by its previous owner. You might see some light scuffs or very thin scratches that don't affect the play. It might have a little bit of surface noise during the quiet parts or the "run-in" (the silent part before the music starts), but it shouldn't distract from the listening experience. For most of us, a VG+ record is the perfect balance between quality and price.
Digging into the "Very Good" Category
This is where things get a little tricky. In the world of vinyl record ratings, "Very Good" (VG) doesn't actually mean "very good" in the way we use it in everyday English. It's more like "well-loved and definitely used."
Very Good (VG)
A VG record is going to have visible signs of wear. We're talking about more noticeable scratches, maybe some light "pitting," and definitely more surface noise. If you're playing a loud rock album, a VG rating might be fine because the music will drown out the clicks and pops. But if you're listening to a solo piano piece or some ambient jazz, a VG copy might drive you a little crazy.
The jacket for a VG record will likely have some "ring wear" (where the shape of the record starts to wear a circle into the cardboard) and maybe some split seams. It's a "player's copy"—it's not a showpiece, but it gets the job done.
Good (G) and Good Plus (G+)
Here is the biggest trap for beginners: the Good rating. In almost any other industry, "Good" is a compliment. In vinyl record ratings, "Good" actually means "pretty rough."
A Good or Good Plus record will play through without skipping (usually), but it's going to have significant surface noise, visible scratches, and a lot of wear. Why would anyone buy this? Usually, it's because the record is incredibly rare or cheap. If you find a first pressing of a rare blues record for five dollars, you might tolerate a G+ rating just to own a piece of history. But if you're looking for high-fidelity sound, you'll want to pass on these.
Why Subjectivity is a Problem
The biggest issue with vinyl record ratings is that they are assigned by humans. One person's "VG+" is another person's "VG." This is why buying records online can be a bit of a gamble.
When you're buying from a site like Discogs or eBay, the seller's reputation is everything. A seller with 5,000 positive reviews is likely very conservative with their grading because they don't want to deal with returns. On the other hand, a random person cleaning out their attic might list everything as "Near Mint" just because it isn't broken in half.
The "Over-Grading" Epidemic
We've all been there. You order a record described as NM, and when it arrives, it looks like someone used it as a frisbee. This is called over-grading, and it's the bane of the hobby. To protect yourself, always look for sellers who provide detailed descriptions. A seller who writes, "Plays great, one light mark on side B that doesn't affect play," is much more trustworthy than someone who just slaps a "VG+" on a listing and calls it a day.
How to Grade Your Own Records
If you're planning on selling some of your collection, you need to be honest with yourself. It's easy to look at a record you've owned for twenty years and think it's perfect because you have great memories of it, but the market doesn't care about your nostalgia.
- Check under a bright light: Daylight or a high-intensity LED bulb will reveal scratches you never knew were there.
- Play-grade whenever possible: This is the gold standard. If you have the time, listen to the record. Sometimes a record looks ugly but sounds great, and sometimes a shiny record has a "pressed-in" hiss that ruins the sound.
- Be conservative: If you're torn between two grades, always pick the lower one. Your buyer will be thrilled to receive a record that's better than described, but they'll be furious if it's worse.
The Physical Extras: Inserts and Posters
When we talk about vinyl record ratings, we can't forget the "goodies." Old records often came with posters, lyric sheets, or even stickers. If a record is missing these original inserts, it usually can't be graded as Near Mint, even if the disc itself is flawless. For serious collectors, these inserts are a massive part of the value. A copy of The Dark Side of the Moon with the original posters and stickers is worth way more than a "naked" copy.
Does the Rating Always Affect the Price?
Generally, yes. The jump from VG to VG+ can often double the price of a record. The jump from VG+ to a true NM copy can sometimes triple it. However, it also depends on the record's scarcity. If there are ten million copies of a record in existence (think Michael Jackson's Thriller), you can afford to be picky and wait for an NM copy. If you're looking for an obscure 1970s psychedelic rock album from Peru, you might have to settle for whatever rating you can find.
Wrapping It All Up
At the end of the day, vinyl record ratings are just a tool to help us communicate. They aren't perfect, and they can be frustrating, but they're better than nothing. The more you handle records and compare what you see to what you hear, the better you'll get at spotting a "true" grade.
Don't let the technicalities take the fun out of it, though. Sometimes, a beat-up, G+ copy of your favorite album has a "crackle" that just feels right. But for everything else? Stick to the VG+ and above, and your ears (and your stylus) will definitely thank you. Happy hunting!